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Finally clear of the fishing nets, we
had a wonderful sail over glassy seas. In the dead of night, Gord called
me out of my sleepy state "You've gotta see this" he said. I
stumbled up the companionway stairs and was amazed at how bright it was
considering there was no moon. Then I saw that the lights were coming from
the water. The phosphorescence was the most amazing sight...the glowing
wake trailing alongside the boat was so bright it lit up the sails, you
could see your shadow! All around the boat there were spots of bright
lights in the water that looked like flashbulbs going off. I don't know
what little animals were causing this strange phenomena but the
evanescence was really awesome. I took over the watch and enjoyed
the entertainment for several more hours.
February 22
The wind picked up by early
morning and the seas were getting rough. We had planned to anchor in Punta
De Metis but opted for the calmer water in La Cruz. We no sooner set the
hook when Russ and Shirley from Wandering Star were beside
our boat in the dinghy. We had a great visit on their boat, catching up on
news since we had last parted ways in Mag Bay several months before.
Nuevo Vallarta Since Wandering Star
was heading back to their home mooring in Nuevo Vallarta, we decided to go
with them and see if we could get a slip in the same marina. The channel
into the marinas was not very deep and we touched bottom on the way in. We
were able to get a slip at Nuevo Vallarta, which is much less expensive
(albeit somewhat run down) compared to the luxurious "Paradise
Village" a quick dinghy ride across the bay. In the Mood
was tied in front of us and Maturua came to the marina
shortly thereafter.
The next morning we attended
the "Puddle Jumpers" meeting and registered our boat to be
included with the 50 or so other boats making the journey to the Marquesas
within the next month for PV. In addition, 50 other boats had already left
for points further south and would be making the hop from there. My
feeling was that it may be quite crowded in the South Pacific.
It is a wonderful support
group here in Vallarta, with organized seminars and committees formed
within the cruising community to exchange charts, and information. And
it's great to meet others planning the same adventure. The second night we
were here, Latitude 38 put on a Puddle Jumpers party at the Paradise
Village Yacht Club. Everyone was offered free beer and snacks while the
boats were interviewed for the Latitude 38 publication.
Shopping in Puerto Vallarta February 25
Shirley was her usual very hospitable self, showing us where all the bargain in PV are. She took me shopping to the market, where I bought a huge bag of fresh veggies and fruits, all for 33 pesos ($3). 4 of us girls went to a Beauty School where you can get FREE haircuts, waxes, manicures, facials, pedicures and the like. If you want your hair colored you only pay for the cost of the product ($10). I had my hair cut and they did a really good job!
 Mexican Dinner
Later
that evening a huge group of us went out to dinner to a great outdoor
restaurant where all meals were 99 pesos (about $10). That includes smoked
marlin appetizers and all the free beer you can drink while waiting for
your table. Then you get soup and all the tequila you can drink!!! Gord
and I had Mahi Mahi fish & shrimp w/ salad...so much we couldn't eat
it all. For dessert...fried bananas w/ cream. Then Kalua and milk to wash
down the rest of the tequila. ALL FOR $10 EACH! And we were entertained by
a Mariachi Band.
Dancing at the Bus Stop
 Waiting
for the bus home, some Mexicans were strumming guitars and beating bongos
at the bus stop.
Naturally, the group of us took advantage of the entertainment and started
dancing on the street to the delight of the locals waiting for the bus.
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Later we
stopped by Matarua.
Pictured here are Joyce & Peter. |
La Cruz March 1
We attended a Water Making
seminar in the neighbouring town of La Cruz. The bus ride was very
entertaining with the music cranked up so loud you couldn't talk to each
other. In the usual Mexican fashion, the bus flew over the ragged
cobblestone streets at an alarming speed, narrowly missing pedestrians and
running another vehicle off the road altogether.
 The town of La Cruz is a quaint little town with dirt
and cobblestone streets and a truly Mexican flair. We went to dinner with
Gwen and Don from Tackless II. A local family puts on a
delightful dinner of home made tacos and quesadillas on Saturday night
only. Tables are set out in the street, waited on by the sons attending
Medical school. The tacos were absolutely delicious, washed down by the
beer we had bought at a nearby tienda. And the price was right!
We were pleased when Ocean
Girl arrived, taking a slip in Paradise Village. To our delight they
had made the decision to cruise the South Pacific as well. We all decided
to spend a relaxing Happy Hour drifting down the river adjacent to the
marina in our dinghies, tied together. Although the mangroves are home to
crocodiles, we didn't actually see any, to our relief. The river system is
very extensive and we managed to get lost. It was dark when we sheepishly
asked a local fisherman catching lobster the way back to the marina.
We managed to get in a
number of Happy Hours before Wandering Star and In the
Mood left the marina to sail south. We bade sad farewells and
promised to maintain the wonderful friendships we have made. Pictured here
is the group of us in Puerto Vallarta.
March 9
Our days are filled with the
chores of fixing things and trying to find boatparts (after all, the
definition of cruising is fixing your boat in exotic places). And
there's provisioning, collecting charts, doing income taxes, trying
to find insurance, etc. However, I have managed to get in some terrific
walks on the endless sandy beach, accessed 2 minutes from the boat. We fit
in a few French lessons in preparation for our stay in the Marquesas.
And the 2-bus ride to the Old
Town of Puerto Vallarta is worth the trip. The buses themselves are very
entertaining. I must say that the Mexicans are a very ingenious and
industrious group of people. You don't often see anyone asking for
handouts or begging on the street. Instead, they will entertain at bus
stops, on the bus or in other places that people congregate. If you like
what you hear, you are welcome to tip. On a recent bus ride into town to
go shopping, a one legged man bound up the steps onto the bus and
started singing. I recognized the songs, although they were in Spanish. He
had the most amazing voice I have ever heard, singing without
accompaniment Often locals will board the bus to sell peanuts and candy to
the passengers. And you can almost always find someone selling cold drinks
and snacks at the hot bus stops. Children everywhere work for tips bagging
groceries, getting taxis and playing instruments. At one intersection not
far from here there is always a fire eater, hoping the drivers of vehicles
waiting for the light change will give a tip..
We had an entertaining night
out at a little restaurant in La Cruz called "Papasitos." We
went with Gwen and Don Tackless II, Derek and Tiffany,
and Mary and Michael (celebrating his 50th birthday) De La
Mar.
In keeping with the Mexican
flavour of the local buses, a couple of guys played their guitars and
bongo drums while the rickety bus clambered down the cobblestone streets
at the usual distressing speed.
We made our
way through the little village of La Cruz, with its dirt and rock roads
and quaint tiendas. The restaurant is not very big but it was packed with
cruisers who had all come to see the entertainment. And it was well worth
the trip. The trio, from Hungary, I think, played Gypsy and Flamenco
music. Everyone really got into their sound including all the waiters and
kitchen staff who were dancing among the tables. Michael joined in for his
birthday dance along with a reluctant Mary.
March 20
We are scrambling to set sail for the Puddle
Jump in a few days. Just finished filing my income taxes, copying charts,
making flags, sewing hatch covers, organizing the medical kit and ditch
bag, etc. etc...now onto provisioning. Gord has been doing major repairs
on the boat and is heading for the airport today to collect yet another
new watermaker! Hopefully this one will work. There certainly has not been
any time to beach comb or sightsee. Don't know what Puerto Vallarta has to
offer outside the marina, market and Walmart!. A lot of cruisers are
leaving this coming week for the trek to the South Pacific. Our hopes are
to be checked out by Wednesday, sail to the fuel dock, fill up and head
out. This, providing the weather gods cooperate. For once we are waiting
for strong wind. We need to avoid using our motor to conserve fuel for
when we hit the Intertropical
Convergence Zone.
This area, usually referred to as the ITCZ, is a band of
unsettled weather surrounding the earth just north of the equator where
the northeast and southeast tradewinds converge and where the sea surface
temperatures reach their maximum values. It
is characterized by calms, light winds from any direction, and areas of
moderate to strong convection reaching altitudes of at least 20,000 feet
with strong electrical storms with torrential rain occasionally
accompanied by strong squally winds.
Seas tend to be small but confused since they can come from any
direction or several directions at once.
A boat from our Puddle Jumper fleet left here several days
ago. They were 4 days out when their rudder broke. Thanks
to the cruisers net and ham radios, he has been in constant contact with
everyone as he tries to build a rudder out of his cabin door or something.
The coastguard has been contacted and are on their way to assist. He will
be limping back to Cabos to attempt boat repairs but probably won't be
able to sail to the South Pacific this year. I guess there are no
guarantees out there, I only hope our passage is a smooth one. Friends
will be able to track our progress by logging into www.pangolin.co.nz/yotreps/tracker.php?ident=VA7KER
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