Finally clear of the fishing nets, we had a wonderful sail over glassy
seas. In the dead of night, Gord called me out of my sleepy state
"You've gotta see this" he said. I stumbled up the companionway stairs
and was amazed at how bright it was considering there was no moon. Then
I saw that the lights were coming from the water. The phosphorescence
was the most amazing sight...the glowing wake trailing alongside the
boat was so bright it lit up the sails, you could see your shadow! All
around the boat there were spots of bright lights in the water that
looked like flashbulbs going off. I don't know what little animals were
causing this strange phenomena but the evanescence was really awesome.
I took over the watch and enjoyed the entertainment for several more
hours.
February 22
The wind picked up by early morning and the seas were getting rough. We
had planned to anchor in Punta De Metis but opted for the calmer
water in La Cruz. We no sooner set the hook when Russ and Shirley
from Wandering Star were beside our boat in the dinghy. We
had a great visit on their boat, catching up on news since we had last
parted ways in Mag Bay several months before.
Nuevo Vallarta
Since Wandering Star was heading back to their home
mooring in Nuevo Vallarta, we decided to go with them and see if we
could get a slip in the same marina. The channel into the marinas was
not very deep and we touched bottom on the way in. We were able to get a
slip at Nuevo Vallarta, which is much less expensive (albeit somewhat
run down) compared to the luxurious "Paradise Village" a quick
dinghy ride across the bay. In the Mood was tied in front
of us and Maturua came to the marina shortly thereafter.
The next morning we attended the "Puddle Jumpers" meeting
and registered our boat to be included with the 50 or so other boats
making the journey to the Marquesas within the next month for PV. In
addition, 50 other boats had already left for points further south and
would be making the hop from there. My feeling was that it may be quite
crowded in the South Pacific.
It is a wonderful support group here in Vallarta, with organized
seminars and committees formed within the cruising community to exchange
charts, and information. And it's great to meet others planning the same
adventure. The second night we were here, Latitude 38 put on a
Puddle Jumpers party at the Paradise Village Yacht Club. Everyone
was offered free beer and snacks while the boats were interviewed for
the Latitude 38 publication.
Shopping in Puerto Vallarta
February 25
Shirley was her usual very hospitable self, showing us where all the
bargain in PV are. She took me shopping to the market, where I bought a
huge bag of fresh veggies and fruits, all for 33 pesos ($3). 4 of
us girls went to a Beauty School where you can get FREE haircuts, waxes,
manicures, facials, pedicures and the like. If you want your hair
colored you only pay for the cost of the product ($10). I had my hair
cut and they did a really good job!  Mexican
Dinner
Later that evening a huge group of us went out to dinner to a great
outdoor restaurant where all meals were 99 pesos (about $10). That
includes smoked marlin appetizers and all the free beer you can drink
while waiting for your table. Then you get soup and all the tequila you
can drink!!! Gord and I had Mahi Mahi fish & shrimp w/ salad...so much
we couldn't eat it all. For dessert...fried bananas w/ cream. Then Kalua
and milk to wash down the rest of the tequila. ALL FOR $10 EACH! And we
were entertained by a Mariachi Band.
Dancing at the Bus Stop  Waiting
for the bus home, some Mexicans were strumming guitars and beating
bongos at the bus stop. Naturally, the group of us took advantage
of the entertainment and started dancing on the street to the delight of
the locals waiting for the bus.

|
Later we stopped by Matarua. Pictured here are
Joyce & Peter. |
La Cruz
March 1
We attended a Water Making seminar in the neighbouring town of La Cruz.
The bus ride was very entertaining with the music cranked up so loud you
couldn't talk to each other. In the usual Mexican fashion, the bus flew
over the ragged cobblestone streets at an alarming speed, narrowly
missing pedestrians and running another vehicle off the road
altogether.  The town of La Cruz is a quaint little town with dirt
and cobblestone streets and a truly Mexican flair. We went to dinner
with Gwen and Don from Tackless II. A local family puts on
a delightful dinner of home made tacos and quesadillas on Saturday night
only. Tables are set out in the street, waited on by the sons attending
Medical school. The tacos were absolutely delicious, washed down by the
beer we had bought at a nearby tienda. And the price was right!
We were pleased when Ocean Girl arrived, taking a slip in
Paradise Village. To our delight they had made the decision to cruise
the South Pacific as well. We all decided to spend a relaxing Happy Hour
drifting down the river adjacent to the marina in our dinghies, tied
together. Although the mangroves are home to crocodiles, we didn't
actually see any, to our relief. The river system is very extensive and
we managed to get lost. It was dark when we sheepishly asked a local
fisherman catching lobster the way back to the marina. We
managed to get in a number of Happy Hours before Wandering Star
and In the Mood left the marina to sail south. We bade sad
farewells and promised to maintain the wonderful friendships we have
made. Pictured here is the group of us in Puerto Vallarta.
March 9
Our days are filled with the chores of fixing things and trying to find
boatparts (after all, the definition of cruising is fixing your boat in
exotic places). And there's provisioning, collecting charts, doing
income taxes, trying to find insurance, etc. However, I have managed to
get in some terrific walks on the endless sandy beach, accessed 2
minutes from the boat. We fit in a few French lessons in preparation for
our stay in the Marquesas.
And the 2-bus ride to the Old Town of Puerto Vallarta is worth
the trip. The buses themselves are very entertaining. I must say that
the Mexicans are a very ingenious and industrious group of people. You
don't often see anyone asking for handouts or begging on the street.
Instead, they will entertain at bus stops, on the bus or in other places
that people congregate. If you like what you hear, you are welcome to
tip. On a recent bus ride into town to go shopping, a one legged
man bound up the steps onto the bus and started singing. I recognized
the songs, although they were in Spanish. He had the most amazing voice
I have ever heard, singing without accompaniment Often locals will board
the bus to sell peanuts and candy to the passengers. And you can almost
always find someone selling cold drinks and snacks at the hot bus stops.
Children everywhere work for tips bagging groceries, getting taxis and
playing instruments. At one intersection not far from here there is
always a fire eater, hoping the drivers of vehicles waiting for the
light change will give a tip..
We had an entertaining night out at a little restaurant in La Cruz
called "Papasitos." We went with Gwen and Don Tackless II,
Derek and Tiffany, and Mary and Michael (celebrating his 50th
birthday) De La Mar.
In keeping with the Mexican flavour of the local buses, a couple of guys
played their guitars and bongo drums while the rickety bus clambered
down the cobblestone streets at the usual distressing speed. We
made our way through the little village of La Cruz, with its dirt and
rock roads and quaint tiendas. The restaurant is not very big but it was
packed with cruisers who had all come to see the entertainment. And it
was well worth the trip. The trio, from Hungary, I think, played Gypsy
and Flamenco music. Everyone really got into their sound including all
the waiters and kitchen staff who were dancing among the tables. Michael
joined in for his birthday dance along with a reluctant Mary.
March 20 We are scrambling to set sail for the
Puddle Jump in a few days. Just finished filing my income taxes,
copying charts, making flags, sewing hatch covers, organizing the
medical kit and ditch bag, etc. etc...now onto provisioning. Gord has
been doing major repairs on the boat and is heading for the airport
today to collect yet another new watermaker! Hopefully this one will
work. There certainly has not been any time to beach comb or sightsee.
Don't know what Puerto Vallarta has to offer outside the marina, market
and Walmart!. A lot of cruisers are leaving this coming week for the
trek to the South Pacific.
Our hopes are to be checked out by Wednesday, sail to the fuel dock,
fill up and head out. This, providing the weather gods cooperate. For
once we are waiting for strong wind. We need to avoid using our motor to
conserve fuel for when we hit the Intertropical
Convergence Zone.
This area, usually referred to as the ITCZ, is a band of unsettled
weather surrounding the earth just north of the equator where the
northeast and southeast tradewinds converge and where the sea surface
temperatures reach their maximum values. It is characterized by calms,
light winds from any direction, and areas of moderate to strong
convection reaching altitudes of at least 20,000 feet with strong
electrical storms with torrential rain occasionally accompanied by
strong squally winds. Seas tend to be small but confused since
they can come from any direction or several directions at once. A boat from our Puddle Jumper fleet left here several days
ago. They were 4 days out when their rudder broke. Thanks
to the cruisers net and ham radios, he has been in constant contact with
everyone as he tries to build a rudder out of his cabin door or
something. The coastguard has been contacted and are on their way to
assist. He will be limping back to Cabos to attempt boat repairs but
probably won't be able to sail to the South Pacific this year. I guess
there are no guarantees out there, I only hope our passage is a smooth
one. Friends will be able to track our progress by logging into
www.pangolin.co.nz/yotreps/tracker.php?ident=VA7KER |